Indian cuisine: Col. Skinner, Maj. Grey, Chutneys and Southern Railway Lamb Curry

While browsing through the menu to order lunch yesterday (Sunday, 29^th) at a reputed Chennai hotel, I came across the listing ‘Southern Railway Lamb Curry’. It was claimed to be a repast from the Raj days.

What struck me immediately was that during the British rule we didn’t have a Southern Railway. It used to be South Indian Railway. Regardless, I studied the description thinking that it could be one of the famous Anglo-Indian recipes. But somehow it didn’t appeal to me and I opted for the old fashioned fish and chips with tartar sauce and Colonel Skinner’s Chutney.

No comment on the food except that I felt the mango chutney was not Col. Skinner’s but more likely, Maj. Grey’s. I believe this brand, which is milder than Skinners, is better known in the United States than in India. Col. Skinner outranks Maj. Grey.

Col. James Skinner was one of the most famous Anglo-Indians. Born to a Scot father and Rajput mother in 1778, he was affectionately known to his soldiers as ‘Sikandar Sahib’. He raised the legendary army unit, Skinner’ Horse. The St. James Church at Kashmere Gate at Delhi was built by him. In the culinary world his name is perpetuated by the famed pickle.

Major Grey was a Brit who soldiered in India. He is best remembered for his chutney. I have not been able to ascertain whether this Major Grey was related to Earl of Grey who was Prime Mister of England (1830-34) and a connoisseur of tea. Earl Grey brand tea bags are available in the market.

Interestingly, a Gray (note the difference in spelling) commanded Skinner’s Horse from 1935 to 1947. That was Col. Douglas Gray. He came down from England to attend the bicentenary celebrations of the Regiment in 2003. He was 90 then. Whether he relished Skinner’s Chutney is not known.

With due apologies to Col. Skinner and Maj. Grey – the chutneys named after them were probably the creations of their cooks. In my opinion, neither of these famous preparations can match the uppumanga (salt mango) chutney served in some Kerala homes. The mango pickled in brine is mashed or lightly ground with red chilies and certain other ingredients. That is delicious.

How many chefs know about it?

Ends.

Also see:

Kerala food: Peechappam, a forgotten item?

Britain strikes back at the Empire

Mango Memories